When my tour guide announced that he'd never been here before, I wasn't sure whether to get excited or worried. Having ditched the car by the roadside, we were about to wade across a river and head uphill into dense rainforest, on the promise of finding the ruins of a coffee plantation. But from where I was standing there was no sign of a trail.
Luckily, one of our group knew where he was going. With his shoes in one hand and a machete in the other, Colonel Lumsden was already halfway across the river, spouting tidbits of local history as he went. At this stage I should point out that Frank is not your average Colonel. He may have a moustache and a khaki shirt but he has no military background; in Jamaica, a "Colonel" is the title given to the head of a Maroon community - and in Charles Town, Frank is commander-in-chief.
